夏威夷美食街正在消失厨师布赖恩平田不会让这种情况发生

无论风雨无阻,厨师都会为他的快闪餐厅 Na'au 采购食材。为子孙后代保护岛上正在消失的美食之路是他使命的一部分。

Brian Hirata 抓起他破旧的锯齿砍刀,走向茂密、浓稠的热带雨林。他扫视着荒野的地形,上面覆盖着常绿灌木、苔藓覆盖的树干和多节的原生 `ōhi`a 树木。一簇 12 英尺高的巨型蕨类植物吸引了他的注意,这些蕨类植物的小提琴头盘绕着手杖那么大。 “在我成长的过程中,我的家人收获了这些,”平田一边说,一边轻轻地从每株蕨类植物中锯出一个小提琴头。 “这种我们称之为 hāpu'u 的成分在两代前在夏威夷非常普遍和流行。”

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在夏威夷岛上希洛和夏威夷火山国家公园之间的一个乡村小镇山景城茂密的森林深处,平田正在为即将在安娜牧场遗产中心举办的弹出式晚餐寻找 hāpu'u在威美亚,一个微风习习的养牛场小镇,位于岛的北边。为这顿晚餐收获的野生食材是平田努力强调本土植物和海洋生物的重要性并保护本土烹饪传统的一部分,这些传统都有被过时的风险。 “我们生活在全世界最偏远的陆地之一,”平田说。 “而且这里生长着一些其他地方不存在的独特事物。”

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